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dirt1016
11-30-2001, 07:30 AM
I just bought a 6x10 wells cargo. I want to set it up nice nice for racing. I thought of putting in a workbench in the front. checkered lanoleum, recessed bike shoes and who knows maby some diamondplate strips where the bikes would go.
I am wondering how people have their trailers setup. What did you make the workbench out of?? flooring? anything else that would make it better??

DR.billZ
11-30-2001, 08:44 AM
If you do put a work bench up front(I have)......make sure you angle the work area forward so nothing will fall off when you drive. Also that beaded anti-slip stuff helps to keep things from sliding off.
I used some closet shelving for storage.

C Watters
11-30-2001, 10:39 AM
Dirt,

I have a Wells Cargo trailer which is just a bit larger than your recent purchase. To-date, I have painted the walls white to lighten it up inside (no power for lights - yet). The walls are quite thin and are prone to having a hole punched by the bar ends. So I'm considering adding a 1/8th inch laminent material to cover the existing sides. The checkerboard linolium floor looks sweet but note that it gouges easily (boot tips, kick stands, etc.) and the d-plating sounds like a nice idea.

As for the workbench, I'm taking the rest of mine out in favor of a smaller box which will run along the front of the trailer(roughly 10'x3'. This will house gear bags, chemical/lubricant crates, gas cans, etc.). I had a 48" overhead cabinet (a flipper obtained frm an out-of-business company) for lubes and the like - but it was too heavy and has been removed. The existing workbench is too much and to-date has not been that beneficial. I need storage space and sitting/sleping quarters more so than work surfaces. my $.02

DR.billZ
11-30-2001, 11:32 AM
My "work bench" is just a 3/4 in. plywood shelf....no cabinets below. It takes up very little room(actuall makes room). I can still put 3 bikes all the way to the front of the trailer as the tires go under the shelf.

Dave Everett
12-03-2001, 09:00 AM
Why don't you make the shelf fold up? In a smaller style trailer you need all the space you can get and having things fold or swing out of the way is the best way to go.

KaliTude
12-03-2001, 02:26 PM
Does anyone have any pictures of interiors they have done? I am in the middle of setting up my trailer, and looking for some good ideas also.

I have a 13x6 V-nose Haulmark. It is the same space as a 12x6 square, but the square part is 10x6, with a triangular space in the nose. I like it for space. So far all we have done is fill the nose with two shelves where all our gear can fit, with a work area/table on the top. For now, I have painted the floor with black floor/deck paint with sand in it. It works great and makes a non-slip surface. Some ideas I have come accross:

Industrial rubber mats for the floors, the kind that some garages use. Everyone that I have spoken with recommends either painting or matts since the tiles that are good enough for the floor are really heavy. If you do use the black and white floor tiles, use the industrial ones since they get really beat up. Like I said, I am going to put matts in. There are special matts for garages that are non-skid and are made to deal with gas/oil.

White wire mesh holders from Target/Wal Mart for the walls. I met a guy who had found perfectly sized white wire holders that bolted to the walls, that fit all his oil/chemical bottles perfectly (you know what I'm taking about, the shelves for kitchen pantries and such). He also had hooks, etc for tie downs, gear, everything. They are a couple bucks and really light, and the guys trailer looked awesome (he had a 6x12 that he had 3 full sized bikes in and 3 minis - really well organized).

Long metal strips that you can hook d-rings into. I forgot what they are called, but you can put a strip down the side of the trailer and attatch the d-ring anywhere. Great for securing stuff like chairs, tents or whatever else you might want to secure out of the way.

I'm always looking for more ideas, so keep 'em coming.

Strick
12-03-2001, 03:24 PM
Canvas type shoe rack. I cant' say enough about these, they are great. Just hang it on a wall and load it up.

I run permenant chocks in the front of the trailer (2), and three sets of Pingel hardware in the rear of the trailer (facing out). I can haul four bikes with the pingels on the out sides, or when hauling three I use the middle pingel hardware. I don't know if you can visualize this, but it works very well.

I love my Checkerboard floor. I get such rave reviews, that it is worth keeping clean. I do have the industrial type of floor tile, so while scratched they are not gouged. It is not slippery at all, and I don't know why except it does not have a shiny finish.

I have the 'heavy duty' wire mesh shelf across the front of my trailer. I purchased it from Home Depot. It is designed with a lip, so items stored on the shelf do not slide off.

I will be installing either a swing up or swing down workbench type of shelf on the (non-door) side of my trailer. Probably 5/8" or 3/4' thick plywood, held by either swing out brackets (from below) or chain (from above). This way it will only be up when the bikes are out of the trailer.

There is my set-up.

dirt1016
12-03-2001, 03:27 PM
How do you know how much weight the walls can hold?? I have peg board for the walls. Iwould love to put some shelves in but I don't konw how much weight I can put on the walls or how to attach them.
Does anyone have those recessed bike shoes?? How hard are they to put in??? I still don't kow what to use for flooring. I love the look of the black and white checkered but I don't want a slippery floor or have it screwed up easilly . I have to go with some diamnod plate for the bikes. It just looks toooooo good!
Does anyone put a 50 gallon tank on the front where the hitch is?? I have seen this setup on the MX tracks a lot. then you hook your presure washer up and CLEAN AWAY!

KaliTude
12-03-2001, 03:39 PM
Originally posted by dirt1016
I love the look of the black and white checkered but I don't want a slippery floor or have it screwed up easilly .

I don't know if my first post made sense or not regarding the floor. Like Strick said, use the industrial type of tile and it won't get too beat up. It is thick and really hard and made for this type of application (for garage floors and the like). Also, like he mentioned, it doesn't have a gloss coating, so it's not too slippery. What you DON'T want to do is use regular floor tiles since they are slippery and will get really beat up.

I spoke with a guy who had his trailer done with the industrial tiles. He said the floor worked great, but had he to do it over he would have gone another route since he noticed the weight. With the truck I have weight is an issue.

dirt1016
12-04-2001, 07:07 AM
So the industrial tile is heavy?? I kind of forgot about weight. Maby I should rethink the diamond plate too. Maby just a corner work tale would be abetter idea and not so heavy. I am hauling it with a GMC jimmy. It has a towing cap. of 5k lbs. I acutally haven't tried hauling it with the jimmy yet. The trailer is just sitting in my parents drivway wating for the race treatment!

KaliTude
12-04-2001, 05:50 PM
Originally posted by dirt1016
So the industrial tile is heavy?? I kind of forgot about weight. Maby I should rethink the diamond plate too. Maby just a corner work tale would be abetter idea and not so heavy. I am hauling it with a GMC jimmy. It has a towing cap. of 5k lbs. I acutally haven't tried hauling it with the jimmy yet. The trailer is just sitting in my parents drivway wating for the race treatment!

There might be some other tile out there that is lighter, I am just repeating what I heard from a guy with a pretty nice set up and the heavy duty industrial tiles. The tiles that will stand up to the job are really heavy. Not a big deal if you are pulling with a 3/4 ton or bigger, or if you don't have a personal issue with weight I guess.

I tow my trailer with a 1/2 ton 5.3 liter Silverado and I notice the weight I am hauling (I have a 7800 lbs towing capacity and the trailer is about 2600-2800 lbs). When I add one extra bike I feel it. I have chosen to try to keep the trailer as light as possible to save my truck and keep my gas mileage high (I am getting 14mpg+ towing). I personally would think if you are towing with a jimmy (is that the S-10 size?) then you would want to keep the weight down.

dirt1016
12-05-2001, 07:23 AM
Ya it is the s-10 size. I hope it is not a problem. The trailer is 6x10 I think is weighs 1300lbs. I wonder what other options I have for flooring. I guess I could just paint it but I would rather have something down on it to protecti it form damage. I don't think I will put in a full work bench. I guess I should try towing it empty and go from there.

KaliTude
12-05-2001, 09:30 AM
Now don't you go and scrap all your plans just cause of this discussion. I was only pointing out an issue that I personally had not thought of prior to buying my own enclosed trailer. It sounds like your trailer is a lot lighter than mine (had I to do it over again I would have gotten a little smaller trailer, but I got a good deal on this one).

A lighter alternative to tiles is the industrial rubber mats that are sold also for garages (made for oil and gas spilling on them). Also, just think "plywood" and "wire shelving" when thinking of storage options IF weight IS an issue.

I am coming from the same place as you. I had expected to put in a tile floor and oak cabinets and make everything look real nice. But for me, I loaded up the trailer with our bikes and gear and realized I would have to cut back a bit.

But you do what is right for you. I am still in the planning stages of my trailer, so I still find myself going riding and checking out everyone elses set-up and asking lots of stupid questions. Most of the ideas I have found have come from being nosey and poking my head into every 6x12 trailer I see :)

HiG4s
12-05-2001, 06:33 PM
Originally posted by dirt1016
Ya it is the s-10 size. I hope it is not a problem. The trailer is 6x10 I think is weighs 1300lbs. I wonder what other options I have for flooring. I guess I could just paint it but I would rather have something down on it to protecti it form damage. I don't think I will put in a full work bench. I guess I should try towing it empty and go from there.

Try Pep Boys, they have the heavy rubber truck bed mats (8ft by however wide a full size pickup is) for about $50. You can cut them to fit and glue them down. 2 of those should be enough to cover the floor and maybe have some left for your work bench.

Strick
12-05-2001, 11:12 PM
Floor tiles:

Since this seems to keep coming up I will elaborate. The cost installed (by me) is less than $150. That includes 4" black base coving. I also sealed the floor with a pigmented shellac before installing, to properly seal the floor. It is real easy to do it takes an afternoon at a snails pace. Start with two rows in the center and work out. The weight of the installed tile is probably 70-80 lbs. This might be on the high side.

I have been pulling my trailer for the past year with a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 6-cylinder. I race, so it has been as far as 250 miles one way from home. I live in Nevada, so we have lots of mountains to go up as well. The jeep pulled the trailer well, no glitches. Gas milage with 3 bikes and 3 people 11-13mpg.

New Yukon at the end of the month though with the big V-8, so no issues towing, but I wonder what the gas mileage will be?

Either way you go - get the canvas shoe rack!

RKNWC
12-23-2001, 12:25 AM
IF ANYONE MUST HEED ANY ADVISE ABOUT TRAILERS !!!!!!!!!!
TAKE ALL THAT TROPHY MONEY AND BUY A SPARE WHEEL ASSY
HUB ETC AND BRAKE SET,
YOU WILL NOT LOOSE MONEY ON THIS,,,IF AND WHEN YOU SELL IT ITS GREAT BARDERING OR SELL IT TO NEXT BUYER
AND ALWAYS KEEP A JACK AND SOME WOOD BLOCKS
IF YOU HAVE THOSE BEARING BUDDIES DONT PUMP GREASE TILL IT BLOWS OUT ....REMEMBER THE OTHER SIDE IS A SEAL THAT IS ONLY DESIGNED TO HOLD GREASE IN AND IF YOU PUMP THE STUFF THRU IT IT WASTE THE SEAL................................
DO THIS NOW !!!! I DONT WANT TO TELL YOU I TOLD YOU SO
GUESS WHY I KNOW ALL THIS????

Jwoods
12-29-2001, 02:51 PM
Guys,

I am Tile Contractor by trade and I have
installed floor tile in 5 trailors to date.
It is possible to use Industrial strength
ceramic tile or porcelin tile, however it
is very important to build a solid foundation
on the existing floor and there are a few
options to choose from. This does add some
weight to your rig, but if you have a good
hauler there should be little worry. I
charge in the neighborhood of 500 to 2000
for a top notch flooring system depending
on size and how invlolved the job is. Vinyl
floors are nice looking but do not withstand
and form of hard abuse.

If anyone is interested I would be more than
happy to answer you questions.

CrazyTed
12-30-2001, 03:19 AM
I don't know if it's a nationwide chain but here on the east coast we have BJ's Wholesale Club. Back in their "guy" section with the tools and auto stuff they have a large rubber mat that is made for your garage floor. It seems this would be great for a trailer floor if the smell wasn't too over-powering. I plan on sleeping in my trailer if I ever get an enclosed one....

ez2endo
12-30-2001, 12:39 PM
Hey Jwoods, how can you install ceramic tile in a trailer? wouldn't the constant vibrations and potholes cause the tiles to crack? Or at least break up the grouting and such?

Jwoods
12-30-2001, 12:58 PM
Hi,

Good question my friend. Well, like I stated
before, it is very IMPORTANT to establish a
solid base on the floor before tile is installed. Not all tiles will work, they've
got to be very hard industrail strength tiles. and you don't want to use a regular
cement based grout, as the vibes will cause
this to crumble. Epoxy grout works well and
I have had no problems up to this point with
customer satisfaction,except for a guy that
accidently backed into something and buckled
the rear end of his trailor. His repaired
required more intense fixes beyond just tile
repairs. Tile is possible, but has to be
done correctly to last.

Jwoods

Alan Bechard
12-31-2001, 03:48 PM
Hey Ted!, I do not have a "BJ's" in my area, next time you are there can you look for a manufacturer of the mat for me please? Possibly I could buy direct or they have a vendor in my area. Thanks for the assistance. I am deciding against tile because of the weight in my new trailer. Mine may get a heavy dose of Thompsons water seal. Al B

CrazyTed
01-01-2002, 05:58 PM
OK,,next time I'm there I'll check and let you know....

chasejj
01-01-2002, 06:55 PM
Has anyone tried to use Line-X or Rhino lining (bed lining material) for interior floor/walls?
I would think it is the perfect application and you could then just hose out the trailer at the end of the day with ipunity.

RKNWC
01-01-2002, 07:17 PM
I SAW A BUD OF MINE THAT PUT THE RUBBER STUFF DOWN ON THE FLOOR IT WAS THE STUFF THAT INTERLOCKS AND APPROX.1" X " SQUARES I THIMK RESTAURANTS USE IT OR INDUSTRIAL ALSO
WITH THE MIGHTY WEB AVAIL JUST CLICK AROUND AND LOOK FOR THE INDUSTRIAL FLOORING AND ITS NOT ALL THAT MUCH $$$$ EITHER...................
PLUS YOU CAN PULL IT OUT AND CLEAN IT OR RE ARRANGE COLORS TOO
HERE THE RIG I USE ON THE BIG TRIPS AND THERES MORE THAN ENUF ROOM
24' FOR THE TOYS AND 20' FOR THE LIVING PART ....NOT TO MENTION SATILITE , 3 T V , SURROND SOUND, FULL SKY DECK WITH AWNING AND PARTY LITES
IM TOO OLD TO RUFF IT ANYMORE

DR.billZ
01-01-2002, 08:40 PM
I'd caution about using a 6cyl to tow on long hauls. I know it was mentioned that it was used for short hauls...250 miles or less. 6cyl transmissions just won't hold up for long hauls...got experience to back that up :( .
I replaced my 6 cyl with a Powerstroke diesel. Yeah I know, I went from one extreme to the other.
I think there is a tremendous market for someone to design and manufacture custom interiors for trailers.....just cut me in on the fortune when you strike it rich ;)

Alan Bechard
01-02-2002, 08:49 PM
Yesterday my buddy and I were cutting in the tie down points into the floor of my trailer and got discussing how they should be placed and how to position the bikes for hauling. He is very experienced and I trust him greatly and he came up with one I have never seen or heard of and was wondering if anyone else had ever done it.
He said that they used to haul bikes in an enclosed trailer with just two straps vertically from the bars to the floor. There were no chocks or front / rear straps used. The bikes were put in gear and just basicly sat there.
I never even considered it. My mind says that the front is wedged pushed against something and my tie downs are roughly in line with front suspension to hold the bike against the chock or wall.
I do have ATK bike shoes but do not like them as well on the trials bikes. Probably will go with something like "pop chocks" or "Pingle's"
Has anyone else used that technique successfully?
Anyone have any particularly good pros or cons for which direction (side to side or fore and aft ) to haul the bikes? Thanks for any advice. Al B

hodaphile
01-03-2002, 11:19 AM
Originally posted by dirt1016
Ya it is the s-10 size. I hope it is not a problem. The trailer is 6x10 I think is weighs 1300lbs. I wonder what other options I have for flooring. I guess I could just paint it but I would rather have something down on it to protecti it form damage. I don't think I will put in a full work bench. I guess I should try towing it empty and go from there.

Watch your brakes. Rarely have I found a problem with the engine pulling the weight but I toasted a LOT of front rotors! And that was even gearing way down when coming down hills. Usually the vehicles with lower towing cap use really small front rotors. Does your trailer have brakes?

hodaphile
01-03-2002, 11:45 AM
Originally posted by chasejj
Has anyone tried to use Line-X or Rhino lining (bed lining material) for interior floor/walls?
I would think it is the perfect application and you could then just hose out the trailer at the end of the day with ipunity.

I haven't used Line-X but we used to use fiberglass gel-coat and a non-skid surface on floors. Used to build catering trailers. Lay down some plywood, throw down a sand or similar substance, then slop on the gel coat resin. Can do colors and be as fancy or plain as you want. We'd usually use battleship grey or white. It can stain but very resistant to solvents. If it chips or scratches slap on more gel coat.

Toolman
01-03-2002, 02:25 PM
The spray on bedliner works great. I have it on the floor of my 24' Snap-On tool truck and on the ramp door of our Playmor Sport toy hauler trailer. It cleans up easily and is reasonably skid proof, plus it can be touched up if you gouge or tear a hole in it.

Whats this nonsense about 6 cylinders ? My 6 hauls our 13,000 GVW trailer just fine only losing about 1 mph up the hills on cruise. Gets 10 to 11 mpg also! Trans temp never gets over about 160 either.

Toolman

dirt1016
01-03-2002, 02:59 PM
Do you put anything on under the rino linner??? Just spray it right on the plywood?? How much does this stuff cost?? I have a 10x6. Can you cut through the stuff. I am putting in two pop up bike shoes so I am not sure if I would do it before or after they spray it.

chasejj
01-03-2002, 07:23 PM
I talked to the Line X people yesterday and they said that they do lots of these trailers and it works excellent.

1) The plywood surface must be clean and dry and oil free.

2) It gives you an excellent non skid surface that's inpenetrable to water, oil, fuels. I think that some chemicals can affect it since it is a polyurethane.

3) If you go up the walls a ways you can just hose out the trailer for cleaning (nice). I would also install a cant strip to at the floor/wall base keep dirt out of the corners.

4) It costs approx. $5.50 PSFin standard black. Colors are more expensive. Most dealers of these bedliners won't bother with the colors since they must clean out their equipment every time they do one.

5) I didn't get the density spec so what it weighs is an unknown, but it has to be as light as any solution other than paint, I can think of.

I'm having this done to my new 7X12 Pace American

Can some of you trailer savvy guys post some interior shots of uniques storage solutions? That would be great

mcnut
02-05-2002, 07:07 AM
I'm in the sprayed truck bed liner and coatings business. I've had my enclosed trailer floor sprayed for 5 years. That's the way to go! It can take all kinds of abuse and cleans up easily with hose presssure. Find somebody that does a hot, high pressure application (not Rhino!) That is the best application method. I am an Arma Coatings dealer. Go to www.armacoatings.com or www.indianaprotective.com (the latter is my website). The material is more durable and looks much better.

Jeff Fredette is one of my customers. He had his transporter sprayed by Rhino (not a very good job) prior to finding out I was doing applications. Then he had me do his new pick-up truck.

The track with the moveable D-rings is called "A-track". This is the hot set up. I didn't know about it when I had my trailer made or else I would have it.

mcnut
02-05-2002, 07:20 AM
To answer the weight question: we add 0.7 lbs. per square foot at 1/8" thickness. On a trailer floor I would recommend going a little heavier, approx. 3/16" so that would be 50% more weight.

Alan Bechard
02-05-2002, 09:46 PM
Just for reference some of the folks that make that track also call it "E" track. I believe that Ancra is one manufacturer. I found it in the local truck supply houses for about $20 for a 10' strip. But the clips cost about $5 each.
I went with the short uni-strut without holes. I had to hunt for a bit to find it (fastenall) but the without holes stuff is really better and stronger for this application. The thing I like best is that I can get nuts, studs etc at any home depot, lowes, decent hardware store or electrical supply house if I need to do something on the road.

I am looking for shelving and front workbench reccomendations at this point.

Spent all last saturday with the router installing "Pop Chocks" in the floor then realized at 0600 Sunday morning, that I mounted one wrong for a full size bike!

Thanks for any suggestions Al B

KaliTude
02-05-2002, 10:58 PM
This place has killer (although pricey) stuff for your trailer http://www.pitpal.com/

I have gone with the cheap wire shelving you get from any home depot, wal mart, OSH, etc. Mine is just a weekend bike hauler though to get the bikes from point A to B. I'd love to be able to afford the Pit Pal stuff though, I've seen it all in person and it is indeed very, very nice stuff.

spdfrk88
02-22-2002, 05:04 PM
These are all great ideas. I recently purchased an 8'x16' tandem axle trailer. It' bone stock now but I've got plans. I drive a Yukon With a 5.7 liter engine so weight isn't an issue. I want to use th rear for hauling mine and my sons bikes (3 total). I'm going with the industrial tile throughout because it's easy to clean. Pingle removeable bike shoes. I'd like to mount an HVAC unit on the roof vent. Vinyl paneling for the interior walls. Some 12 volt lighting. I've been trying to locate an RV dealership or someplace where I can get RV type accessories to make the front half more liveable for long days at the races (for my wife) or to get in away from the weather.
If you guys have any more ideas or know of a source for Some of this stuff. Let me know. Thanx Jim

dozer
02-22-2002, 09:36 PM
Has anyone installed a shower and limited bathroom facilities so that the wife can be coaxed to come along. Or should I just buy one already converted?

VtEnduro
02-24-2002, 09:18 AM
I've gotten some of thwe smaller (and cheaper) products from pitpal and the quality is great! Easy to mount and works like it should... If nothing else the site will give you some good ideas.


Dave

jay
02-24-2002, 05:06 PM
I went out to buy a new aluminum enclosed trailer, this summer and ran across these trailers from Cargo Mate Mfg by Forest River products, They are made with Encor Siding that is to sheets of fiber glass with foam in the between, there are no side wall beams at all ,the color is in the glass and you can literally through base balls at it with no harm, It was only 200.00 more than a trailer made of alum. sheets and steel screws that looks like crap after it goes through a Minnesota winter .
Mine came with E track also , these trailers are worth a look if your in the market .

HiG4s
02-25-2002, 04:54 PM
Originally posted by jay
I went out to buy a new aluminum enclosed trailer, this summer and ran across these trailers from Cargo Mate Mfg by Forest River products, They are made with Encor Siding that is to sheets of fiber glass with foam in the between, there are no side wall beams at all ,the color is in the glass and you can literally through base balls at it with no harm, It was only 200.00 more than a trailer made of alum. sheets and steel screws that looks like crap after it goes through a Minnesota winter .
Mine came with E track also , these trailers are worth a look if your in the market .

You wouldn't happen to have a web site link for them?

hodaphile
02-26-2002, 10:16 AM
Originally posted by dozer
Has anyone installed a shower and limited bathroom facilities so that the wife can be coaxed to come along. Or should I just buy one already converted?

Dozer,

From my experience it is cheaper and easier to buy an already converted wife than trying to pick one up cheap and convert her. If you already have a non-comforming model, it is usually better to exchange a few bike trips for other types of vacations.

Just my opinion, a little 411 to avoid the 911...

Razor85
02-27-2002, 08:49 PM
Check out justrace.com for wall brackets and other trailer stuff.

dozer
02-28-2002, 08:56 PM
Hodafile,

The wife is really not a non-conforming model. She would probably tough it out with me on our own. I did not mention it but we just had a little one 6 months ago and I would like to make it easier for all of us to go on riding trips.

We were in Long Beach about 7 years ago and we really enjoyed it. Great weather and lots of things to do. We sail Hobie Cats back here on Lake Erie but looks like the Ocean where you live would be a lot of fun. Looks like one of the best play grounds in America.

hodaphile
03-01-2002, 07:22 AM
Dozer,

Even though they are way too many tree huggers, you have to drive 2 hours to ride for an hour, houses cost 4 times what they should, and the cost of living will kill you, I wouldn't trade it for anything. Snow ski one day, water ski the next, surf the day after that and then ride your dirtbike in the mountains in February, why go anywhere else!!!!

You can't beat the toyhaulers for value then if you are looking to accomodate everyone. I have seen some 18 footers that can be easily hauled with a half-ton truck or SUV. Saw list price with ton of basic equip for around 10k brand new!

My problem with the family is always fresh water and waste water capacity. The haulers are nice because they have a ton of capacity. I am even thinking of getting one to pull behind my motorhome just to have extra capacity!

dozer
03-01-2002, 08:49 PM
Your right. We almost were tranfered to Orange County 6 years ago and I think we would have liked it. We were shocked by the cost of houses and propery but it meant less grass to mow too. We have 6 acres now and 3 hours worth of mowing with a big commercial mower. What I need is one of those 2 wheel drive rokons with a mower deck on the back.

We have a Chevy Tahoe with a 327 V8 that has power but not big block power. Need something that won't overwelm the mid-size V8. We could handle 10K too. We just don't want to go much higher than that.

Noticed that you must like Hodakas. I was thinking about looking for a Super Rat for the wife. What do think? I always wanted one when I was a kid.

jay
03-02-2002, 10:39 AM
dozer ,
The Cargo Mate trailers made from Encor seem to be hard to find, They are also sold under the name of We-Haul www.kennnedydiesel.com has pictures and prices I think I payed 3700.00 plus tax for a 7'x14' steel frame ,tandem,fancy wheels,brakes,tandem rear doors ,I guess you can also get the frame in aluminum if you order it, that would save maybe anther 100lbs. Most trailers are made in Indiana and if your close you could pick it up and save even more.

dozer
03-02-2002, 12:24 PM
Thanks for the info. We are close enough to pick one up. I need to select one first then go for a ride.

mcnut
03-03-2002, 08:28 AM
If you come to Indiana to pick up a trailer, you should stop by my shop and check out our coatings for your floor. Go to www.indianaprotective.com for more information.

dozer
03-03-2002, 08:20 PM
Thank you for the invitation. I marked your website in my brouser. Will try to stop in if I go direct.

mcnut
03-04-2002, 06:58 AM
Dozer, you're welcome to stop by anytime. We're here M-F, 9-5. By the way, I like that KTM300 .gif. I copied it and sent it to my nephew who, at this time, has an '02 300 EXC. It's for sale, if you know anyone that's interested. He's trying to get cash to build a house.

dozer
03-04-2002, 04:21 PM
Thanks for the compliment on the gif. Actually mgorman made it for me. He made a neat one of his husky dog "moto" that he uses. Do a search on mgorman and you'll see his gif. Too bad your nephew has to sell his bike. Someone will pick up a nice slightly used bike.

300exc
03-08-2002, 10:02 PM
That was a great read and thanks to all who posted. I just bought a 6x12 united expressway trailer, (it came with a yz 250). Already had a work plywood bench built into the front with cabinets under. Dont know how well the cabinets will work or if open space will be better. Put pegboard up front over the bench to hold goggles, gloves and such. Have a hanger in the back for the chest protector. I put bike shoes in mounted to the floor. They get in the way alittle but I know my bikes wont fall over. Here's an idea. The guy I bought the trailer from put the bike on a metal bike stand and just used 2 tiedowns from the frame to fasten it to the floor. This way the suspension wasnt compressed at all. The trailer came with a awning that pull's off the side about 6-8 '. I have only used the trailer twice so far but love being able to store all the gear in there and not have to unload all that stuff every time. Like changing clothes in the dry also. Cant stand up straight in the trailer. need about 2 more inches. We'll see how well that works also.

Alan Bechard
03-14-2002, 10:53 AM
As I am setting up my trailer I stumbled across some stuff I thought I would pass on. I went to the local RV store and got a powered roof vent. Had to order it (no returns) at $70 they said it was a good deal (and I listened to a salesman, duh!) Anyway Go to www.americanvan.com and they have lots of great cabinetry etc for work vans and such. Not geared specificaly like the Pit Pal stuff but the prices are much more affordable and it is nice well made stuff. We use some of it here at work. Why I did not get the vent from them for $40 continues to escape me. I just did not think about it when I was looking.

Anyway if you are setting up a trailer take a look there and I bet at the least it will give you some ideas.

Al Bechard

Al Switzer
08-08-2002, 01:18 PM
Ive got a 10x5x6'tall-looks like a horse trailer but no windows. The extra foot to stand up in it was only 25$ more so I went for that.

I put Home depot 1ft wide lightweight-closet shelving up along the front upper area and along the long wall up high for whatever.

I have an aluminum extruded (mil-surplus) rectangular frame, that swings up from the wall on door hinges and stays horizontal with two indexed post that fit in 5/16 holes thru the floor. I stretched old innertubes over it in a criss-cross pattern to make the most comfortable bunk bed ever! I secured the ends of the tubes to the bottom of the rails with folder binder clips from Staples(the stress is at the first edge of the tube over the square tube-so the clip never sees my weight increase on the rubber). A simple slide latch keeps in in place when down against the wall for transport.

I have a garden sprayer with braided clear 5/8 going thru a ball valve mounted to the upper edge of the inside of the door then going to a watersaving shower head. I open the door, swing the hose end and head up over a screw, pump the garden sprayer and turn on the shower-A little chilly at times but good pressure.

I have two small 12v fans mounted inside to the upper frame to keep the air moving on those July race nights.

I put velcro around each door frame and made a roll up screen with a velcro edge that keeps the skeeters out and the breaze in. The roll up has two 6 in straps with quick snaps to secure it up to the top of the door frame when not using it.

All I need is a funnel thru the floor so I dont have to get my D**k snagged in the velcro for that midnight leak!:D

Layton
08-20-2002, 12:51 PM
I just used paint on the floor of my trailer. I chose gray garage floor paint so the gas/oil wont harm it.
After a while it does get marred up but a gallon of paint will do the floor numerous times and it only takes a short while to put a coat on.

For the walls I used a white outdoor paint. Same as above. When it gets too scrached up, just put on another coat.

Mine is also 6x10 and I found that you really don't have much room for extras like a work bench.

Hope this helps.

Gary B.
09-02-2002, 08:42 AM
This is some interesting reading, as I recently got the bug to get an enclosed trailer. I have 3 full sized bikes, 1 mini, and a mid-sized ATV (Blaster) to haul. Currently I use a 8 1/2 x12 open, snowmobile type trailer and tow with an extended cab full-size GMC with a 4.8 engine. I was looking at a 7 or 8 by 16 ft enclosed with a ramp door and side door. I wouldn't need a work bench, but some storage cabinets, racks, etc. I'm not fussy about the floor as long as it lasts and can be swept clean easily. I also would like the e-track on the floor for tie downs, as I don't always load the bikes the same way. I am concerned about how this will tow down the road especially under windy conditions. Any and all comments welcome because I'm not 100% convinced yet that I want to go this route at all.

LJ1
03-26-2003, 01:10 PM
I have a Vintage 7 by 14 tandem axle. To solve the floor problem I purchased rubber roofing at menards. $65 and glued to the plywood floor with corian trim around the edges. It is easy to put down and I pressure wash everything out. I installed d rings and removable wheel chocks in the floor. Used silicon caulk around the hardware to avoid water going below and rotting plywood. The rubber will swell when you are hauling your buddies bike and he forgets to shut off the gas. Leave it alone and will return to correct size.
Wire racks with clear bins are light and easily searched. Bunge into position.
Buying new? Get the spare in the floor. Include cheap jack, tire iron, section of plywood and old gloves. No matter what is used to tow you will have everything you need.
It is very important to layout how you plan on using the trailer for maximum hauling capacity as well as load distibution.
Takes me about 5 minutes to leave for riding and I know everything needed is in the trailer. LJ
:D

mcnut
03-26-2003, 02:37 PM
Wow! This old thread just won't die.

We just sprayed a floor in Jeff Fredette's new motorcycle hauler, a new gooseneck trailer with living quarters in the front and small "garage" section in the back. With Jeff providing help with the labor, we removed the doors of his cabinets and sprayed the floors in them as well. Spilled gas cans will not affect our material.

He is a good worker. I asked him if he would like to be an employee. He declined. :D We also sprayed Jeff's truck bed (2nd one).

Aside from being a living WoodsRacer legend, he's a super-nice guy and a good customer.

www.IndianaProtective.com

ktm520racer
03-26-2003, 07:39 PM
I build RV's and enclosed trailers for a living. Here are some of my ideas. I use .056 diamond plate for the floor for a pretty finish that is tough. It adds some weight to the trailer. I also, put 12" around the walls to protect them. Now, another idea that I used for snowmobile trailers and ramp doors is to use SANDED PORCH paint. You can buy it at Lowe's for $18 a gallon. Prime and paint right over the plywood. It won't add weight, it is very tough, not slippery at all, and when it gets dirty later, just repaint!

And for the bikes. I use the blue bike shoes along the drivers side wall at a 30 degree angle for the handle bars to miss(20" between each shoe). In a 7' x 14' trailer = 5 bikes and 7' x 16' = 6 bikes and still room for bench, a mini or 2 and a changing area.

And for the toolbox. I build an aluminum frame and mount it to the wall in the back of the trailer to keep weight off the tongue. And under it is 4 - 5 gallon gas jug storage. I then mount cabinets above the fender well area to also keep weight off the tongue.

For the guys asking about water. You can goto the trouble of mounting underneath between the frame rails, OR you can mount above the fender wells to keep weight off the tongue.

Remember. A trailer should have 10% to 15% tongue weight to pull correctly.

These are some of my ideas. Hope this will help someone out.

Smit-Dog
06-03-2003, 01:26 PM
Is there any semi-accurate way to get tongue weight of a loaded trailer without going to a place with a full-size scale?

ktm520racer
07-12-2003, 07:43 PM
No, not really. Not all 2 enclosed trailers are created equal in load. Basically, most trailers are built on a 60/40 ratio. 60% weight on the tongue empty. Now, that changes with how it's loaded. Most enclosed trailers are tongue heavy! They tend to load the workbench and tools to the front. I try to built 55/45 to help this problem. I also put tool boxes and fuel in the back. I hope this might help.

partsforu
09-23-2003, 06:12 PM
This is interesting and some good ideas,.after I bought my trailer, i reinforced the floor with 5/8" cdx plywood no paint or tile yet.
Undecided.
I built a work bence keeping in mind, "keep it as light as possible no matter what".
I have diamond plate alum as two 19" doors on each side,..I have dia plate alum drop down door in the middle bottom, to store removable pingle chocks, and in the middle, I built it so I can put my sears top box from my rollaround tool box there, placed a removable top in the center, so I can open the top when necessary, and fitted the top with a light weight flat surface alum.
All works pretty good.
My $.02 as well.

YZ Abuser
11-03-2003, 08:01 AM
And for the bikes. I use the blue bike shoes along the drivers side wall at a 30 degree angle for the handle bars to miss(20" between each shoe). In a 7' x 14' trailer = 5 bikes and 7' x 16' = 6 bikes and still room for bench, a mini or 2 and a changing area.



ktm520racer

Are you still hanging around these parts? I'd like to see some pictures of the trailers you've set-up if possible. Do you have any you can post? I'm courious about the way you load multiple bikes and how that works out. Especially loading the bikes to one side. You seem to really optimize the space on a 7'x16" trailer!

partsforu
11-03-2003, 04:24 PM
ktm520racer

Are you still hanging around these parts? I'd like to see some pictures of the trailers you've set-up if possible. Do you have any you can post? I'm courious about the way you load multiple bikes and how that works out. Especially loading the bikes to one side. You seem to really optimize the space on a 7'x16" trailer!

Yea, If your talkin bout me,..I'll always be around these parts. I'm not going anywhere but up the road to the cematary hopefull in maybe 30-40 years. :0).
I have no pictures of my trailer. It's now full of work relared products, Joe Rocket stuff, tires, chains aluminum products as well as the 2004 FLY race gear I sell.
If you send me an E mail I can kinda draw ya out a rough diagram of what I did but it was not in a 7' X 16'. More like an 8X 12.
Thank's. Ride on!

YZ Abuser
11-05-2003, 07:30 AM
If you are the guy building trailers it was directed to you. Even if you're not and have helpful info I would graciously accept any ideas!

Thanks

YZ A
mln@cableone.net

YZ Abuser
11-13-2003, 09:53 AM
Anybody out there?

Al Switzer
09-02-2004, 10:48 AM
Ive got a 5x10 x 6ft tall Wells. I fabricated an aluminum frame from extruded pieces from a scrap yard and built a 6.5 x 2.5 rectangle. Fastened the long edge to the wall with normal door hinges (3 to a side) and supported the hinges vertically with 1x3 oak boards nailed to the wall thru the upright struts. That way I swing the rectangle up and any force is held by the boards and not the wall material. I cut strips of innertubes and wove a pattern back and forth for the bed material and fastened the ends of the tubes to the frame with spring clips for holding papers together. The bed swings up and I use two poles along the outer edge to the floor to keep it up, with two drilled holes in the floor to position the uprights..Works great!

SHOWER: I took a gardensprayer from Homedepot and plumbed the output thru 5/8" braided hose and a ball valve to the door and capped it with a low pressure water saving showerhead. I swing the door open, flip the 8" spoutsection connected between the ballvalve and head up over a nail and pump it up for a good pressure shower. Everything is from HomeDepot.

Screens: I took screening material and fastened velcro along the edges and the inside of the door frames. The screen gets rolled up and clicked into storage with plastic fannypack type fasteners..when I want breeze thru on a hot race night , I flip them down, press them against the velco doorframe and I'm bugfree.

Fans: Ive got two 12Vdc fans clipped to the inside of the trailer frame that keeps air moving when the screens are down and its real war.

GiXeR
09-14-2004, 02:40 PM
I would not keep the bike in gear. I know I know tons of people do it. But it will beat up your tranny. Its bad enough they get killed on the trail to then trailer them that way it not a good idea.



Yesterday my buddy and I were cutting in the tie down points into the floor of my trailer and got discussing how they should be placed and how to position the bikes for hauling. He is very experienced and I trust him greatly and he came up with one I have never seen or heard of and was wondering if anyone else had ever done it.
He said that they used to haul bikes in an enclosed trailer with just two straps vertically from the bars to the floor. There were no chocks or front / rear straps used. The bikes were put in gear and just basicly sat there.
I never even considered it. My mind says that the front is wedged pushed against something and my tie downs are roughly in line with front suspension to hold the bike against the chock or wall.
I do have ATK bike shoes but do not like them as well on the trials bikes. Probably will go with something like "pop chocks" or "Pingle's"
Has anyone else used that technique successfully?
Anyone have any particularly good pros or cons for which direction (side to side or fore and aft ) to haul the bikes? Thanks for any advice. Al B

GiXeR
09-14-2004, 02:53 PM
Any one see vents on the side of the trailer?? One usualy faces forward on one side at the top. Then there is one on the other side at the bottom back of the trailer. Then air gets in threw one and out the other. The thing is I can find them but they are fixed and I want ones that I can open and close so if its raining I can shut them.
I added a roof vent and I bought it at an RV shop for 23 bucks. Dont go to a trailer shop they want to much for them.

racinray
09-14-2004, 11:56 PM
i have a cargo mate low rider cycle trailer it has the side vents you are looking for they open either way front or back if it helps the company that makes cargo mate is forest river out of elkhart , indiana 55470 county road 1 ph [574] 389- 4600 i have looked for a company name on the vents them selves but do not see anything i would drop them a line maybe with some luck they could put you track they really are handy .

GiXeR
09-15-2004, 12:23 PM
Hey
I just thought of some thing. I have a 5x8 enclosed trailer. I should have bought a larger one but I have to work with what I have now. Well I want to carry 3 full size bikes. I am thinking of getting a sheet of hardboard and running it along the walls where the handlebars would be. Its not that thick and I want to add it to build strength in the wall. I can then push the bikes to the outer edge and actually rest the end of the handle bar against this hard board and not worry about it going threw my trailer wall. Of course I am going to tie them down but if it wiggles I don’t have to worry about the thin inner wall that is there now. Oh I plan on keeping that thin inner wall also. Then I can put 2 bikes in facing front and one facing the back in the middle. I could also add some Styrofoam in between the inner and outer wall just to give is some more surface area and strength.
Any thoughts on this?? I would really like to carry 3 bikes in there.

racinray
09-15-2004, 01:50 PM
i cant see why that would not work i would also add D rings to the wall to pull the bike tight to it then you will be certain that there will be no movement .

GiXeR
09-15-2004, 03:02 PM
i cant see why that would not work i would also add D rings to the wall to pull the bike tight to it then you will be certain that there will be no movement .

Thats not a bad idea.

JTT
09-16-2004, 06:06 AM
GiXer, are you planning to have the front wheel straight ahead on the 2 forward facing bikes?

I've seen a few guys that carry 3 full size bikes in cargo vans. What they do is put the first forward facing bike in, jam the front wheel into the corner (lets say the left corner) of the trailer (or van) with the bars turned to the left. A tiedown straight down from the bar to the floor on the left side and then pull the back wheel over to the wall. Then repeat for the other side.

What this gives you is a whole bunch of space in the middle now and much less chance of the bikes banging together in transit.

I did this last winter, hauling my full size ice bike in my 6x10 with a quad (with plow). The quad takes up almost the entire trailer, but loaded this way, with bike first, they both fit in fine.

Just a thought.

GiXeR
09-16-2004, 04:51 PM
Yeah I was either thinking of having them face forward or facing the middle. This way the bar end in the center of the trailer it closer to the bike and would make more room in the center. I guess your way will work also I just dont see it in my head yet. I will throw them in the trailer and start playing with some ideas

Malanut
06-08-2006, 12:34 AM
We used the do it yourself roll in Herculiner kit in our M/C's club trailer. It's only been in a year now but looks great. It's an very economical way to get a spray in type liner. We also rolled it up the insides about 16 inches. We also used Herculiner maybe 4 years ago in our pickup bed and it's held up well, about time to refresh it a bit now.

It's pretty cheap, $80 for the kit at GI Joes, enough to do a truck bed easily. You may need an adtl small can to do a trailer.

KTM 3:16
11-15-2006, 03:58 PM
How about some pictures?
I juast got a 6x12 V-nose and looking for some setup's
I put 3 Pingle removeable chocks in so far.
Trying to figure out where to put a work bench and so on.
So how do you want the weight dirtributed(how much on the tounge)?
Someone said they were getting 14 mpg towing with there 1500 silverado.
I have a 1500 crew cab,4wd,5.3 and only seem to avereage 15 or so city & hwy.not towing
Thanks
Doug

okie
12-13-2006, 11:04 AM
Check out justrace.com for wall brackets and other trailer stuff.

There is some great information in these sites. The prices were better. I would like to have the web site for the aluminum trailors also. This is the how to find just race. www.justrace.com
See Y'all
Okie

KTM 3:16
05-14-2007, 03:30 PM
we need pictures!!!

51racing
05-22-2007, 07:56 AM
Here are a few pictures of our trailer we have used over the last year or so. Maybe it will help for a few ideas. It is setup to sleep a family of 5 and carry all the bikes, gear, food,etc for a three day weekend.

Green Hornet
05-22-2007, 09:19 AM
Here are a few pictures of our trailer we have used over the last year or so. Maybe it will help for a few ideas. It is setup to sleep a family of 5 and carry all the bikes, gear, food,etc for a three day weekend.


Smart Setup.. Very Nice...

CrazyTed
05-22-2007, 10:46 AM
Tried to go to JustRace.com but my internet security says it is a really dangerous site for SPAM, etc....

KTM 3:16
05-22-2007, 03:38 PM
What size and brand generator are you guy's using?

51racing
05-22-2007, 04:57 PM
We currently run a Troy-Bilt 5500 watt generator which is louder than we would like. We will go a different route next time we buy one. The generator has a built in low oil shut off that has given us a little bit of probems. If the generator is not completely level, it will shut off even though it has plenty of oil. To offset this problem, I tilt the generator when changing the oil to put a little more in than is actually needed. Just a pain...other than that no problems at all.

KTMFan
06-07-2007, 09:13 AM
Put down 3 rows of e-track in the floor (@ $10 per 10' stick from my local tractor trailer repair store) & 2 rows down each wall (about 18" off the floor). Use the pingle wheel chocks & you have the best of both worlds. The bikes (or anything else) can be configured anywhere you want them & items can be secured anywhere along the wall. Works Great!

out thumped
02-18-2008, 03:25 PM
McNutt,
I checked out your business site and it sounds good. I have a Thule 8x12 trailer and a 07 GMC seirra Crew Cab. i see there are no dealers any where near me in Burlington, VT.
I have to save $ on this prodject as my wife has had it with my wild dirt bike spending. What do you think would be the best do it your self kit out there.
I was thinking 3 gallons should do it.
I also welcome any tips for application, I used the trailer 6 times last season so I will need to clean it out. Should I sand the wood?

I have a buddy who just bought the same trailer and did an awsome job with 2 gallons, went up 16" on the sides.
I will then paint the walls after.
I have a friend who has a heated garage as it is winter up here. Is there an optimal tempiture for application? I know your product goes on hot.
Any tips or recommendations on products is great.
Thanks,
OT

pitviperacing
06-20-2008, 09:02 PM
Does anyone put a 50 gallon tank on the front where the hitch is?? I have seen this setup on the MX tracks a lot. then you hook your presure washer up and CLEAN AWAY!


I have a 6X12 and put a 50 gal tank on the nose,made a cradle type bracket w/2 ratchet straps holdin it on for now so far its workin ok. Got the tank at tractor supply for $50...found one w/no tags got a deal:D Not all tracks have water so it helps from draggin mud in on floor.
Love the checkered floors I've seen but weight and price of tile besides I'm more into lights...22 LEDS and added more:cool:
I put a cheap shower curtain and long gummy cord side to side for a quick changin room in the front, kids can be funny about if anyone can see them changing and no roof vent can get warm quick w/the ramp up.
Good idea on the wire racks,the cabinets are pricey from pit posse and others..IMO