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Hello everyone, Im new to this site and am very impressed with the way everyone seems to put the effort into helping others learn. I was hopeing to take advantage of this.
I have a KX250F with stock suspension, I've been rideing about one year and weigh around 160lbs at 6ft tall. I ride the woods of Maine and want to play with compresion and rebound adjustments. Anybody have any good starting points? I've never messed with the suspension settings before and do not know how much to adjust the rebound in relation with compresion. Example, for every click of compresion do I need to change my rebound setting and if so how much.
Thanks for any info.
07-05-2004, 01:40 PM
Getting started, shock:
Setting the rebound:
1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.
2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the motorcycle out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the motorcycle into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)
3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)
Setting the compression:
1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)
2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension.
Getting started, forks:
Setting the compression:
1.) The forks should react to all track variations. If the forks seem harsh on small bumps or holes, soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) If they aren't, stiffen (Turn clicker in.) until they do feel harsh and then turn back a click or two.
2.) Now find the rough part of the track again. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacle. If harsh bottoming occurs, add oil in 5 mm increments.
Setting the rebound:
The rebound damping is responsible for the stability and the cornering characteristics of the motorcycle.
1) Find a short sweeper. When the forks compress for the turn, the speed at which the forks return is the energy that pushes your front wheel into the ground. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tuck under and turn too soon to the inside. Find the appropriate balance for each track.
2). With the bike turning well, the wheel should return to the ground quickly yet not deflect off berms or bounce off jumps.
Going to different tracks:
For hardpack to intermediate:
Set the compression softer, (Turn clicker out) front and rear to help get maximum wheel contact and plushness.
(Non-square edged bumps); More low speed compression and rebound are necessary. Start by adding 1-2 clicks (Turn clicker in.) of rebound and as the track gets rough, add compression 1-4 clicks. (Turn clicker in.) (Supplementary sand set-up techniques). Harshness is a result of packing in forks. Remember to add compression (Turn clicker in) to help keep the front end from packing. The rear suspension will exhibit packing by swapping. To eliminate swapping begin adding compression (Turn clicker in) until the bike tracks straight and then add rebound (Turn clicker in) to keep the rear following the terrain of each whoop. Don't be concerned if your clickers are nearly maxed out in sand conditions. Unless of course you had your bike revalved for sand.
Adjust the forks lower in the triple clamps.
Excessive rear end kick:
Check for packing, which is identified by kick to side in hard to loam conditions. If you observe packing, soften rebound. (Turn clicker out.) This cannot be avoided if you brake improperly and lock the rear wheel up and/or pull in the clutch, on the entrance to corners.
07-05-2004, 01:48 PM
I think I got most of that from the GPS suspension site , don`t remember for sure where it all came from.
Another thing to try is find a section of trail that isn`t very difficult to ride and adjust your clickers to the extreme on at a time. One pass with shock rebound full open , the next full closed. Then compression and then the same with the forks. Take it easy and feel what each does tot he way your bike feels to you. Just write down your settings before you do this and you can alweays go right back to where you were before you tried them at extremes.
07-05-2004, 01:58 PM
Don't fear your clickers. Like A-Tek said, write down what you got so you can always go back and then start dialing.
If you've ever messed with them or are not sure about what too much of this or too much of that feels like, then turn on of them at a time from full open and give it a ride. Then take that same clicker to full closed and ride the same section. Do that with all your clickers to learn what it's like.
Just be careful when you ride, it might not act the same. Like opening the shock rebound all the way, it may get a nasty kick in the rear. But, that's the best way to learn.
Thanks for all the info, I'll be going out this comeing weekend and will begin to play with the settings. I'll post about my experience after.
07-06-2004, 12:07 PM
They information already provide by A-tek and mtrhead is good but just in case is is not obvious and you have not already done this...
Don't forget to get your sag set properly before you do any other adjustments.
Your owners manual will tell you how to do this.
07-06-2004, 05:31 PM
Ah yes, excellent advise. I wish I'd have said that. :D
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